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ADMIN "FUN" Keeping your SCFLIER SportCruiser Forum Alive


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In the background,   your friendly SCFLIER ADMIN gets to update the website SW periodically.

Typically,  most Website Software updates are SECURITY Fixes.     

Some SW Updates fix bugs,   and some provide improved functionality.

In the last year,  we have had seven SCFLIER Website SW Upgrades.   An example is shown in the attached picture for your enjoyment.

SCFLIER Website SW Improvements are transparent to the individual SCFLIER Member.

Fun Fun for your friendly Admin

Dave

IPS_SW_Update_4pt4pt10___2-10-2020.jpg

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  • 6 months later...

As y’all may have noticed, the SCFLIER SportCruiser forum has a new “look” to it, with some changes. 
 

My comments:

  • I, as your Admin did not ask for this.  Some of the changes are Security Updates, and these are always good to activate.
  • Other changes affect functionality and are driven by Upgrades devised by the Website SW Engineers.   Some Upgrades are, indeed, “way cool”.
  • The Company that maintains our website operating software, all your posts, pictures, links to stuff, ... ,  is CONSTANTLY Updating the software that runs our (and many other’s) forum. 
  • Sometimes, new features work well, and provide useful new capabilities.
  • My process is ALWAYS to WAIT when a new SW Version comes out, at least one iteration or two, for the SW Engineers to find their bugs and fix them.   Then, after a wait period and a few iterations of “bug fixes”, I go through the Website SW update process which takes an hour or so. 
  • My goal is to keep the background details of website SW Iterations transparent to the individual SCFLIER Forum Members.  
  • There is a process for individual Admin / Forum Owners to request Upgrades, fixes to known bugs and to “repair” the degradations caused by new upgrades.  My experience has been that the waiting list of website SW change requests is literally THOUSANDS of individual Forum Admin’s complaints.  The point being that my requests to help SCFLIER Forum members are lumped in with thousands of other Forum’s Admin’s requests.  Do the math.  The folks doing the website SW are NOT SportCruiser Pilots.  
     
  • I will work hard to maintain functionality and usefulness of the SCFLIER Forum.   It is a challenge.  


Your Friendly Admin,

Dave

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  • 1 year later...
11 hours ago, Jerry Mascagni said:

Have any idea where to purchase repair parts for a sport cruiser. Been calling the number in Florida and get no answer.

 

Good luck with that. The office in Florida has been closed for months if not a year now. Some parts come out of Utah and if they don’t have it you’ll wait many months for it to come from the factory in the Czech Republic. 
 

I don’t have the contact info for the folks in Utah but hopefully someone else will chime in here and share it. 
 

What exactly are you looking for? Not all parts are SportCruiser specific. 
 

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Cruiser Aircraft, Utah.

1-772-918-8242

I have had zero issues getting in touch with them in a timely manner, and have gotten parts both from Czech via the Utah office (third generation nose gear last February), and other parts here in stock in USA from Cruiser Aircraft (Utah). 

FYI: All things that were happening at the place in Florida is now in Utah. The Florida place is closed.

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(772) 918-8242 

Taylor in the Parts Department, at Cruiser Aircraft / KBTF Utah.

My experience had been very good with the folks in Utah for CRUZ aircraft specific parts.   
 

However, expect to wait MONTHS for some “special” unique CRUZ aircraft specific parts that need to be produced at the Cruiser LSA Airplane factory in the Czech Republic.  

The bottleneck for these unique CRUZ S-LSA aircraft specific parts is in the Czech Republic, NOT Utah.

 

And, my opinion, a CRUZ Aircraft owner should ALWAYS buy “NON CRUZ Specific” Aircraft Parts,  for example Rotax engine parts, Dynon &  Garmin Avionics, more,  … parts direct from the original Rotax engine and/or Dynon/Garmin avionics manufacturer, NOT from CruiserAircraft.    
 

And, remember that one of the benefits of owning a CRUZ LSA with simple aluminum / riveted airplane wings, rudder, ailerons, elevator. …, is that aluminum / Rivet repair techniques are widely available that do NOT require any parts from Cruzer Aircraft.   And there are a large amount of “parts” like the main landing gear legs,  wing tip lights,  ELT’s,  Com/VOR/transponder antennas, trim position sensors, center throttle, pitot/static tube, …, and more that can and should be bought direct from the original part manufacturer, NOT Thru CruiserAircraft.

 

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On 9/15/2021 at 9:50 PM, ShawnM said:

Good luck with that. The office in Florida has been closed for months if not a year now. Some parts come out of Utah and if they don’t have it you’ll wait many months for it to come from the factory in the Czech Republic. 
 

I don’t have the contact info for the folks in Utah but hopefully someone else will chime in here and share it. 
 

What exactly are you looking for? Not all parts are SportCruiser specific. 
 

I need a right wing fuel tank. My IA has removed it and has tried to weld it. He gets some pin holes filed and some more show up.  We are thinking about fabricating one.???

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On 9/16/2021 at 1:37 PM, DavePilot said:

(772) 918-8242 

Taylor in the Parts Department, at Cruiser Aircraft / KBTF Utah.

My experience had been very good with the folks in Utah for CRUZ aircraft specific parts.   
 

However, expect to wait MONTHS for some “special” unique CRUZ aircraft specific parts that need to be produced at the Cruiser LSA Airplane factory in the Czech Republic.  

The bottleneck for these unique CRUZ S-LSA aircraft specific parts is in the Czech Republic, NOT Utah.

 

And, my opinion, a CRUZ Aircraft owner should ALWAYS buy “NON CRUZ Specific” Aircraft Parts,  for example Rotax engine parts, Dynon &  Garmin Avionics, more,  … parts direct from the original Rotax engine and/or Dynon/Garmin avionics manufacturer, NOT from CruiserAircraft.    
 

And, remember that one of the benefits of owning a CRUZ LSA with simple aluminum / riveted airplane wings, rudder, ailerons, elevator. …, is that aluminum / Rivet repair techniques are widely available that do NOT require any parts from Cruzer Aircraft.   And there are a large amount of “parts” like the main landing gear legs,  wing tip lights,  ELT’s,  Com/VOR/transponder antennas, trim position sensors, center throttle, pitot/static tube, …, and more that can and should be bought direct from the original part manufacturer, NOT Thru CruiserAircraft.

 

Thanks.

I'll contact Cruiser in Utah.

My plane is an 2006. Experimental

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On 9/16/2021 at 1:37 PM, DavePilot said:

(772) 918-8242 

Taylor in the Parts Department, at Cruiser Aircraft / KBTF Utah.

My experience had been very good with the folks in Utah for CRUZ aircraft specific parts.   
 

However, expect to wait MONTHS for some “special” unique CRUZ aircraft specific parts that need to be produced at the Cruiser LSA Airplane factory in the Czech Republic.  

The bottleneck for these unique CRUZ S-LSA aircraft specific parts is in the Czech Republic, NOT Utah.

 

And, my opinion, a CRUZ Aircraft owner should ALWAYS buy “NON CRUZ Specific” Aircraft Parts,  for example Rotax engine parts, Dynon &  Garmin Avionics, more,  … parts direct from the original Rotax engine and/or Dynon/Garmin avionics manufacturer, NOT from CruiserAircraft.    
 

And, remember that one of the benefits of owning a CRUZ LSA with simple aluminum / riveted airplane wings, rudder, ailerons, elevator. …, is that aluminum / Rivet repair techniques are widely available that do NOT require any parts from Cruzer Aircraft.   And there are a large amount of “parts” like the main landing gear legs,  wing tip lights,  ELT’s,  Com/VOR/transponder antennas, trim position sensors, center throttle, pitot/static tube, …, and more that can and should be bought direct from the original part manufacturer, NOT Thru CruiserAircraft.

 

Thanks.

I'll contact Cruiser in Utah.

My plane is an 2006. Experimental

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19 minutes ago, Jerry Mascagni said:

I need a right wing fuel tank. My IA has removed it and has tried to weld it. He gets some pin holes filed and some more show up.  We are thinking about fabricating one.???

Since you are experimental I'd strongly suggest fabricating your own tank. There's no telling how long you'd wait for a tank and you'll need a second mortgage to pay their exorbitant price for one.

Where are the pin holes? In the welds at the ends? Cut off the end of the tank squarely just past the welds and fabricate a new end plate and weld it on fresh. Just my 2¢

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9 hours ago, ShawnM said:

Since you are experimental I'd strongly suggest fabricating your own tank. There's no telling how long you'd wait for a tank and you'll need a second mortgage to pay their exorbitant price for one.

Where are the pin holes? In the welds at the ends? Cut off the end of the tank squarely just past the welds and fabricate a new end plate and weld it on fresh. Just my 2¢

I second Shawn's suggestion.  If Cruiser in Utah doesn't have one, you'll wait a long time for the factory to make one and send to you.  I last checked in 2017 (I think) when Cruiser was in Sebastian, Florida and they had both a left and right tank they ordered by accident, and I needed the left tank.  It was about $1,000 from what I remember (without shipping - I flew in and picked it up).  Utah may very well have the right tank still in stock if nobody purchased it since then.

Welding a tank (since your IA has it out, and to Shawn's point) is a good option.  If your IA can't weld it, any radiator shop that can TIG weld should be able to do the job (and may be able to flush out and pressure test.)

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10 hours ago, ShawnM said:

Since you are experimental I'd strongly suggest fabricating your own tank. There's no telling how long you'd wait for a tank and you'll need a second mortgage to pay their exorbitant price for one.

Where are the pin holes? In the welds at the ends? Cut off the end of the tank squarely just past the welds and fabricate a new end plate and weld it on fresh. Just my 2¢

The pin holes are in the wing drain area and toward the front of the tank. Some pinholes are in the end plate. I called Aircraft Spruce and ordered the aluminum sheet.  Of course it is out of stock till October 21.

 

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58 minutes ago, rtk said:

I second Shawn's suggestion.  If Cruiser in Utah doesn't have one, you'll wait a long time for the factory to make one and send to you.  I last checked in 2017 (I think) when Cruiser was in Sebastian, Florida and they had both a left and right tank they ordered by accident, and I needed the left tank.  It was about $1,000 from what I remember (without shipping - I flew in and picked it up).  Utah may very well have the right tank still in stock if nobody purchased it since then.

Welding a tank (since your IA has it out, and to Shawn's point) is a good option.  If your IA can't weld it, any radiator shop that can TIG weld should be able to do the job (and may be able to flush out and pressure test.)

My IA thinks that there is a pretty large area that has pitted. As he welds up one hole and we check for leaks. We find another leak just a little way from where he just welded.

I'm going to find the phone number for Utah and call them. Maby they still have the tank.

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1 hour ago, Jerry Mascagni said:

My IA thinks that there is a pretty large area that has pitted. As he welds up one hole and we check for leaks. We find another leak just a little way from where he just welded.

I'm going to find the phone number for Utah and call them. Maby they still have the tank.

If it just pin holes,  Proseal might be a cheaper repair. 

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1 hour ago, Jerry Mascagni said:

The pin holes are in the wing drain area and toward the front of the tank. Some pinholes are in the end plate. I called Aircraft Spruce and ordered the aluminum sheet.  Of course it is out of stock till October 21.

There are several metal suppliers in the Greenville area, just call one of them and order a sheet locally. You'll have it tomorrow. 6061 is very common. 

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55 minutes ago, ronin5573 said:

If it just pin holes,  Proseal might be a cheaper repair. 

I'm really not comfortable putting that in the tank.

I worry about small pieces coming loose. I will ask my IA about it, get his opinion.

My main concern on the tank fabrication is forming the nose of the tank. Been reading about vaccum bag forming. Have you done this before.

 

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46 minutes ago, ShawnM said:

There are several metal suppliers in the Greenville area, just call one of them and order a sheet locally. You'll have it tomorrow. 6061 is very common. 

I was told tanks are made from 5053H34. Was told 6061 would crack and would be hard to make the radius at the nose of the tank. I have some small pieces of 6061 and will see if I can form the tank end over a piece of oak wood.  

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