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PilotPete

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Posts posted by PilotPete

  1. 4 hours ago, whiskeypapa said:

    That is a valid point. In my particular case, I didn't consider that could be an issue, so I did both at the same time and ultimately it all went through just fine. I mailed in my registration the day after purchase. 3 weeks later, I met with my DAR, and he was able to complete and submit all of the paperwork using my temporary registration. About 90 days after I mailed in my registration, it came back from the FAA with the Special Light Sport classification, and about 4 weeks after that, my registration was updated to the Experimental classification. I didn't receive any additional correspondence from the FAA about the change in classification, but was able to confirm it was completed by using the online FAA Registry. I can't say for certain, but it seemed to me that the inspection that my DAR performed went a little smoother than it otherwise would have, because the annual condition inspection had occurred so recently. My thoughts on S-LSA vs E-LSA are below, there could be other reasons I omitted.

    Reasons for not converting to E-LSA:

    • You will potentially sell to another buyer soon or potentially do a sale or leaseback to a flight school that will use it in their training fleet.
    • You are a CFI and want to do flight instruction with the Sportcruiser.
    • You are satisfied with how the plane is currently equipped and do not want to make any upgrades or modifications.
    • You are not mechanically inclined and will always seek out an LSRM or an A&P to perform maintenance and annual condition inspections.

    Reasons for converting to E-LSA:

    • You understand that factory support, especially for the early models, is non-existent and want to be unconstrained from them issuing an LOA for modifications, which they won't.
    • You want to be able to perform equipment upgrades and add advanced safety features, like AOA, SmartGlide, ADSB In, XM Weather, etc. while staying within defined operating limitations for light sport aircraft. 
    • You want to be able to perform maintenance on your own aircraft.
    • You want to be able to perform your own annual condition inspections (after obtaining your LSRI-A certification).

     

     

    WhiskeyPapa thank you for the succinct summary! 

  2. Assuming all good mechanically I don't think you will find a better deal so far as price and hours in this economy. The five year rubber and new gear is often a financial stumbling block, so that is good news. Back in early 2020 that price would get you the glass cockpit, but since then those models jumped to the $120+k range. If the aircraft has a BRS those cost about $3,000 repack every 5 years, not sure if that figures in for your plane. As well as ADSB if you fly within the Mode C etc. So hopefully ADSB is included as it costs to upgrade etc. Folks in the forum here will reasonably argue that the price is too high, and compared to three years ago it certainly is, but today is today, and you want to fly today. Seems like you are doing do diligence on the mechanics, and if she checks out I don't see how you could do much better without jumping into the current state of affairs in the $120k Sportcruiser market. The plane is an outstanding performer within the mission this plane is designed for (two folks who don't weigh too much in reasonable VFR). 

    You may want to check the forums on what to review and look for before purchase, as I recall there is a very succinct thread on that here somewhere. 

    Good luck!

  3. Welcome!

    Here are my thoughts on getting in and out of the SC, not damaging the aircraft, and a couple of other notes of things I wish I knew then:

    If two persons are on the back steps at the same time the airplane can tail drop. This might damage the aircraft and/or cause someone to fall. One person at a time. 

    Try not to step on the seats. The support underneath isn't tremendous, and is there is a service bulletin for inspection/repair from bent support brackets.

    When entering, as stated by others, use the dash handholds and center column support/side of canopy/fuselage. Support as much weight there. Don't use the seatbacks to enter.

    Exiting is simply a matter of "commiting" to stepping off backwards and knowing the step is still in fact attached and didn't fall off in flight. Step back and feel for it. It's easy over time.

    Do not turn and face rewards to climb off/out. It won't work. If a passenger does turn towards the tail tell them to turn around. I haven't seen an easy way off facing the tail except a big jump. 

    I ALWAYS exit first and come around to monitor folks as they exit and step backwards. I monitor the "NO STEP" areas carefully. Keep them clear of the flaps and the no step areas. Don't let them step sideways towards the cargo hatches, as these are super thin. 

    Ensure you retract your flaps as it can be easy to catch a toe.

    No high heels. They will puncture your seats and are really not appropriate for safely climbing in and out. 

    Since we are talking taking care of the canopy area:

    Don't leave the canopy up in the sun without a dash protector. The sun/canopy will quickly burn a hole in your dashboard. No BS. It's a real problem.

    Be careful of strong wind gusts/windy days catching and pulling/damaging an open canopy. 

    Reach up and close the canopy carefully and fully, don't let passengers try to pull it closed via the guide rails, as the rails can bend. 

    Don't place anything on your dashboard. Closing the canopy on a headset, especially, can crack your canopy. 

    Clean the canopy with Plexus, gently, and only wipe in the direction of flight (One direction, don't swirl). Swirling causes damage/glare issue. Don't use a lot of elbow grease as you can crack the canopy a lot easier than you might think. Use a fresh clean cloth. 

    I think being super attentive to passengers puts both you and them at ease, and establishes an aura of "sterile cockpit". I remind myself and my passengers to take our time.

    A bent flap, a dented wing, a damaged flap motor, a busted $18,000 canopy, broken seat rails, all not fun. One moment of inattention and a passenger can ground your plane for a long time. These are not Piper Archers. They are relatively fragile. Be careful. 

    Oh: Close canopy before flight. Double check. Keep your cords/headset control unit clear of the canopy latch. Keep objects in the rear storage clear of the canopy latch mechanism. There have been several accidents, one fatal, from the canopy opening in flight. Many others that were "non events". Best to avoid all of that.

    Move the plane by pushing and pulling at the prop hub base (not prop tips). If you use the hand tug, only use it to steer the wheel, don't pull it will come off and you will get hurt. It's only to steer. Don't push/move the plane by the tail or wings (maybe at the root?) as they are prone to dents! Use the prop hub. It's a very light plane.

    I always tie down my plane, even for short visits at transient parking. I almost lost my plane when a helicopter came to the pumps and his rotor wash got under my wings. I ran over and me and another guy held her down. She will fly off if left alone on a windy day. 

    Enjoy!!

    This forum is a great resource. Read as many of the posts here that you can digest. There are huge amounts of knowledge, lore, and tips in this group. 

    Safe travels and once again welcome!

    -Pilot Pete

     

     

     

     

     

  4. Cruiser Aircraft, Utah.

    1-772-918-8242

    I have had zero issues getting in touch with them in a timely manner, and have gotten parts both from Czech via the Utah office (third generation nose gear last February), and other parts here in stock in USA from Cruiser Aircraft (Utah). 

    FYI: All things that were happening at the place in Florida is now in Utah. The Florida place is closed.

  5. The 3rd generation NLG is $3995. Your 2010 Pipersport came with 2nd generation. You could simply inspect every 25 landings and cross your fingers. The bad side of that is if the NLG DOES fail your will have prop strike, engine damage, underside damage, and whatever else happens when you leave the runway, including injury to self or passenger. I'd imagine the plane would be close to a writeoff. I'm going to speculate that by the time you see a crack it is close to failure and is unsafe, and I didn't want to get "that close". Although NLG failures are NOT common, they have occurred and shouldn't be discounted. Should you ever sell the plane buyers are looking for both the new NLG and, of course, no history of damage. 

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