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About Necco

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  1. I was hoping youd say that. You personally know how bad i want to get my hands on a real czaw.
  2. Still have to buy tooling to do your own maintenance. Jacks. Torque wrenches. Spring scales ( that should be calibrated) extra cost. Protractor for control deflection. Grease and gun. Oil filter wrench and cutter. Safety wire and pliers. Screw gun, light , inspection mirror,place to put your greasy oily rags and gloves. Special tooling from rotax. Computer or printer or ipad because you have to have documentation while doing the work. Compression tester. Purge fixtures for oil. Maybe even a solvent tank. A 10x magnify glass. Magnet for oil filter particles. Torque stripe. A contraption for the fuel tightness check. (Regulated). Sounds like a smal fbo in the long run. And those are just off the top of my head.
  3. Thats great to hear shawnM and ronnin5573, sounds like you two are on top of things, lately i have ran across sellers who just dont know, or their pockets are that deep.
  4. What is the going cost for an A&P in this category. I gaurantee what the company is charging you we mechanics dont see that. I would guess the average mechanic makes $15-25hr. I know some companies charge as high as $80-95
  5. Absolutely! One page. ( front and back) I already thought about the first 10 lines im going to write. It will be one to hang on the wall!!! Lol
  6. Anybody have a plane i can wash and wax? Im getting bored
  7. From 2015 till today. What was the longest period the motor was not cranked? With only 40 some hours there are some gaps. My opinion = get a pre buy inspection done by a neutral party. Lsrm, A&P, an owner operator who is familiar with rotax and czeck sport airframes. Check the logbooks, factory paperwork, maintenance records. Make sure its up to date with the ICA. What SB’s and SA’s have been complied with. And when and by who. Again just my thoughts. And also AD’s. I found two already
  8. Excellent advice shawnM. He is spot on with this. Keep your records, review them. Some areas on the checklists are fill in the blanks, you need to know this information. They tell a story, especially to me. They help me pinpoint a pattern or trouble areas. Plus you paid for this service. It holds the mechanic to his word if he initials each item. I personally would get a binder and keep every one. You can look back on them and create a chart. For example- Two annuals ago you started loosing compression in cyl#2, well now say it is really low. We can pretty much connect the dots here with the road map on the likely hood of what needs to be done.
  9. Yes sir. Your LSRM should know this.
  10. I will even go out on a limb here and bet that LSRM who did your inspection for the 100/annual didnt do a a fuel tightness check. Or remove the horizontal stab to lube the pins. But im just assuming and just a hanger monkey. Hopefully you have the checklist from the mechanic and keep it till its superseded. FAR But again if your happy with the LSRM and your purchase and how the inspection was conducted great. Again im just a hanger monkey
  11. And some A&P’s have a tremendous amount of experience. And are rotax certified. Do your homework and pick accordingly. To say youd pick one over the other is a major downfall. Bottom line is get someone who has experience in this category aircraft and knows how it works. But to suggest one is more knowledgeable than the other is jumping the gun.
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